One week in Tallinn
Seven days that pair the capital with Lahemaa National Park, the university town of Tartu, and the island of Saaremaa — plus honest advice on which 2 neighbourhoods to sleep in.
Wooden houses of Kalamaja district under low Baltic light
Days 1-3: Tallinn base
Sleep in Kalamaja for the first three nights — it's a 12-minute walk to the Old Town but you wake up among wooden houses and neighbourhood cafés. Hektor Container Hotel from $95, or Kalev Spa Hotel by the Old Town wall from $130 if you want a pool. Day 1 do the Old Town top to bottom. Day 2 Telliskivi, Kalamaja and Lennusadam. Day 3 Kadriorg park, KUMU art museum ($14) and the presidential palace, ending with a swim or sauna at Kalma or Iglupark.
Day 4: Lahemaa National Park
Rent a car for one day (from $45) or book a small-group tour (about $75). Lahemaa is an hour east: bogs with boardwalks at Viru raba, the manor at Palmse, and the fishing village of Altja with its net sheds and juniper-lined lanes. Lunch of grilled Baltic herring at Altja Kõrts for around $16. Back in Tallinn by 7pm.
Days 5-6: Tartu
Take the 07:15 Elron train south to Tartu (2h, $16). Estonia's second city is calmer, cheaper and student-heavy. Sleep at Hotel Lydia or V Spa, both from $110. See the Estonian National Museum ($14), climb Toomemägi, drink at Möku on Rüütli, and eat at Joyce or Meat Market. It's a genuine 2-day town, not a half-day.
Day 7: Back to Tallinn, or Saaremaa if you have longer
If your flight is Sunday, return Saturday afternoon and spend the last night in the Old Town — splurge at Schlössle Hotel from $220 for a proper medieval finish. If you can steal 2 more days, swap Tartu for the island of Saaremaa: ferry from Virtsu, windmills at Angla, the meteorite crater at Kaali, and Georg Ots Spa Hotel in Kuressaare from $105.
Frequently asked questions
What people ask before they set off on this one.
For the city alone, yes. Pair it with Lahemaa, Tartu or the islands and a week is well spent.
Only for 1-2 days of day trips. Trains and buses cover Tartu, Pärnu and Narva fine.
Late May through early September. June has the longest days; August the warmest sea for swimming.
Mid-range: $900-1,300 including hotels, meals, one car day and train fares. Budget guesthouses bring it under $700.
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